Transparency in Perfume
Understanding Ingredients
At Abel, radical transparency means we’ve shared our full ingredient lists since day one. We spoke with Holly Moore, known as The Ingredientist, whose scientific, product development and regulatory expertise offers insight into transparency in the fragrance industry.
We explore the differences between INCI lists and ingredient lists to help you better understand fragrance labeling.
ABEL: At Abel we share both our INCI list, and our full ingredients list, but find customers are often (rightly) confused about what the two mean. Can you help to clarify?
HOLLY: “Absolutely! An INCI list is a standardized, legally required format for listing every ingredient in a cosmetic product, using chemical terminology. Its primary purpose is to inform consumers, highlighting potential allergens to help those with sensitivities or allergies decide whether a product is appropriate for them.
However, when it comes to fragrance, INCI regulations allow brands to simply list “parfum” or “fragrance” instead of disclosing the entire formula, to protect trade secrets. Although potential fragrance allergens must always be disclosed separately, the full fragrance formula itself isn't mandated.
In contrast, a complete fragrance ingredients list is something brands can voluntarily provide to offer enhanced transparency. While many companies only disclose what's legally required, a select few — such as Abel — choose to share every single ingredient, going above and beyond standard industry practices.”
ABEL: An INCI list doesn’t distinguish whether an ingredient is derived from a renewable source or a petrochemical source, so this adds confusion.
Our INCI list can look identical to conventional perfume lNCI lists because these lists name the molecule itself rather than the source ingredient.
At Abel, we list “Bergamot essential oil” in our ingredient list and “Linalool” in our INCI list. Linalool is a naturally occurring molecule found within bergamot essential oil.
Linalool is also a molecule that can be synthesised from petrochemicals for perfume use. This is a non-renewable source.
At Abel, our standard is 100% natural because we believe fossil fuels shouldn’t have a place in perfume.
ABEL: Why aren’t fragrance ingredient lists fully disclosed by most brands?
HOLLY: “Fragrance formulations have historically been considered proprietary information — essentially trade secrets. This practice safeguards the artistry of master perfumers. For brands whose products rely heavily on scent, protecting these formulations is key.
However, there’s now a growing demand for transparency, creating a delicate balance between preserving proprietary blends and empowering consumers to make informed choices. I completely understand the desire to protect the scientific artistry of perfumery, but I believe we’re reaching a point where the industry can evolve beyond relying solely on secrecy. Through innovation and collaboration, we have the opportunity to advance fragrance creation in ways that benefit the entire industry.
That’s why I applaud Abel’s approach. By fully disclosing ingredient lists, Abel invites nuanced conversations around ingredient sourcing, sustainability, and formulation — complex topics many brands aren’t prepared to have.”
ABEL: How do you see transparency shaping the fragrance industry?
HOLLY: “Fragrance has become so much more than a luxury — it’s woven into people’s daily rituals, from personal care to home environments. That shift naturally raises the bar for what consumers expect around safety, ingredient integrity, and transparency.
People want to know not just what’s in their products, but also where those ingredients come from and how they’re sourced.
Looking ahead, I see transparency evolving from a nice-to-have to a non-negotiable. It won’t just differentiate brands — it will define the ones that lead the industry into its next chapter.”
ABEL: Your journey to becoming The Ingredientist is fascinating. What led you here?
HOLLY: “I actually started my career with a degree in public health, and my health law thesis focused on the regulatory landscape of cosmetics and fragrances in the United States — this was around 15 years ago. That experience sparked my passion for environmental health and ingredients, particularly what's happening behind the product label. From there, I transitioned into indie beauty brand development, where my focus evolved into ingredient science, sustainability, and storytelling. Today, as The Ingredientist, I specialize in product development consulting, ingredient innovation, and education — also teaching cosmetic chemistry and skincare ingredient science at UCLA.”
